Candied Citrus Peels
This time of year—this season sparked by coloured lights—can be a hard one. Especially so if the darkness drives you darker. Especially so if the coldness makes a home in your bones. Especially so in the midst of a global pandemic when ordinary comforts are beyond arm’s reach. By necessity, some traditions give way, flex to new ones.
This year, maybe a laptop on the table brings a loved one to dinner. This year, maybe we travel in books and in our dreams. Maybe we deliver closeness by phone, letter, and text. Maybe we make our own brilliant glimmer: summer-citrused, bright and tart. Maybe we ignite a bright orange arc across a deep winter sky. Solstice is coming. Winter, yes. And then spring.
This recipe is loosely based on a recipe in Saveur magazine about twenty years ago. I make it every December to send to friends and family around the world. They’re great for snacking and using to make Florentine cookies or anything else that calls for candied citrus. To make them extra special for the holidays, dip them in chocolate.
Makes 80 to 100 strips
Citrus - 6 large navel oranges or their equivalent (for example 3 grapefruits, or 8 or 9 smaller blood oranges)
Granulated sugar - 2 cups (400 g)
Water - 1 cup (240 ml)
Chocolate dip (optional)
Bittersweet chocolate - 4 ounces (115 g) - Use good-quality chocolate that you’d happily eat out of hand
Unsalted butter - 1 tablespoon (14 g)
Trim about 1/2” (13 mm) from the poles of each piece of fruit, then cut a slit in the peel from one cut end to the other (north pole to south pole).
Use a spoon to work your way around the inside of the peel to separate the rind from the flesh.
Slice the separated peels into thin strips, about 1/4” (6.5 mm), or whatever thickness you like.
Cover the strips in cold water and refrigerate them overnight.
The next day, drain the strips, put them in a large, heavy-bottomed pot, cover the peels with water, and bring the peels in water to a boil.
Drain the peels and set them aside.
In the same pot, add the sugar and water and bring them to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil until the sugar completely dissolves, then boil for a couple more minutes just to be sure.
Add the drained peels to the sugar syrup, turn the heat down to medium or medium-low, and simmer the peels, stirring often.
When most of the liquid has boiled away, pay close attention and stir more often. If you want soft-glazed peels, remove the peels once they looked glazed and translucent and most of the syrup is clinging to the fruit (about 30 minutes). If you want firmer peels, continue cooking and stirring until all of the liquid is gone and the sugar is crystalized on the peels (this is the way I like them).
When the peels reach the consistency you like, turn off the heat and spread the peels on a cooling rack. Once the peels are cool, you can put them in sealed bag or container and keep them for months in the refrigerator.
When you are ready to dip them in chocolate, prepare one or two sheet pans or cookie sheets with a sheet of parchment or a silicone baking mat.
Melt the chocolate and butter in a double-boiler and stir to combine. When the chocolate mixture is melted, remove it from the heat.
Dip one end of each peel in the chocolate, then lay the peel on the parchment to cool. Once the dipped peels are cool, you can dust them with a little granular sugar for extra sparkle. Put them in a sealed bag or container and store them in a cool, dark place (including the refrigerator), or package immediately for gifts.
Rebecca Siegel